20 May 2013

Monday Morning Photo - Spanish Street Lights & Palm Trees

Blue sky, palm trees and ornate street lighting with the aroma of Orange blossom filling the air in Santiago de Calatrava, Jaen.




17 May 2013

Spain Trip Planning - Tapas Tours & Horse Shows in Andalucia

Tapas is a way of life, an expectation on our dinner table, a necessity with chilled beer and a fabulous way to eat al fresco sampling a little of what you fancy from a large choice.

So when my latest trip planning clients wanted me to include some flamenco and tapas tours on their Andalucia trip I couldn´t have been more delighted than to recommend Shawn, the Tapas Queen in Sevilla, with whom I´ve had the pleasure of joining on a tapas tour. Shawn also offers Market and Tapas Tours and Flamenco and Tapas Tours which my clients are going to do.

Tapas Tour in Seville
Tapas in Sevilla

Their other requirement was a horse show, so we combined a visit to Jerez de la Frontera and the Yeguada de Cartuja Andalusian horse display and then to nearby Vejer de la Frontera to join the popular Annie B on a private Tapas Tour, who I´ve haven´t had the pleasure of meeting yet but hope to this summer, Annie also offers cooking holidays in Spain.

Yeguada de Cartuja, Jerez
Yeguada de Cartuja, Jerez

Flying into Malaga and out of Madrid we had to make lots of choices of what they should see and do on this trip and what could feasibly and enjoyably be done. The trip planning is now 95% complete and their journey starts in just a few weeks time, I´m so looking forward to their feedback, knowing that they are so excited about it all, will have a fabulous time and will go home wanting to return.


13 May 2013

Monday Morning Photo - Local Romeria

The local village Romeria in El Reguelo where we have our holiday rental home Casa Rural El Reguelo yesterday.


Coming Down from the Chapel

Carrying the Virgen


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06 May 2013

Spanish Wooden Church Door, Peep Holes and Wild Flowers

Fabulous wooden church doors in Torredonjimeno, Jaen. Wooden doors, peep holes, and wildflowers placed in jars, very touching in a spot surrounded only by olive groves and no houses let alone people.



See some of my other Spanish wooden door posts

Spanish Wooden Church Doors

Old Spanish Wooden Doors


29 April 2013

25 April 2013

A Walk Down The Ramblas - A Barcelona Guided Tour

I've written so much now about the history of Barcelona's Ramblas, the origins of the name and the fact that The Ramblas is actually five streets in one that in this guest post, which Rachel has kindly invited me to write for her Andalucia Explorer blog, I thought I'd tell you about a few of the highlights of my A Walk Down The Ramblas Guided Tour.

The Ramblas, Barcelona
Aerial View, The Ramblas

The Ramblas Walking Tour takes three hours, so I'm not going to explain the whole itinerary partly because Rachel wants this blog post to be short and sweet, partly because the walk seems to change subtly every time I do it but mainly because that would be giving too much away.

Only Drink The Water If You Like Place

One of the early stops is the famous Font de Canaletes Drinking Fountain, where legend has it if you drink the water you'll always return to Barcelona.

This is also where Barça fans celebrate the clubs victories because in the 1930s - long before radios were common - there used to be a newspaper office here that published the football results on a chalkboard outside as soon as they were wired through.

I expect to be here in a non-professional capacity twice in May - once to celebrate winning La Liga and again to celebrate the Champions League!!!

Fuente Barcelona, Font de Canaletes
Font de Canalete


The Flower Sellers That Fell In Love With Lorca (And Vice Versa!)

The most beautiful section of The Ramblas is La Rambla de les Flors where the flower sellers have their stalls.

At start of the the Civil War, poet and playwright Federico García Lorca came to Barcelona to stage a play at the Gran Teatre del Liceu and at the start of the run went to buy some flowers for his dressing room. He so charmed the girls on the stalls that they sent freshly cut flowers up to his dressing room every day.

Just before the very successful run came to an end, Lorca closed El Liceu, which has a capacity for 3000 spectators, and put on a performance especially for the girls from the flower stalls. Lorca is famous for describing The Ramblas as the street he 'wished would never end'.

Flowers Sellers, Barcelona
Flower Sellers, Barcelona


The Best Public Market In The World

In 2005, at the World Conference of Public Markets in Washington, Barcelona's Boqueria Market was voted the best in the world, and my visitors are wowed by the sights, sounds and smells as we walk around.

Coffee in Barcelona

The picture shows Juanito from Bar Pinotxo, near the entrance to La Boqueria - he probably tops Messi and Artur Mas as the most photographed man in Barcelona. If we're lucky we might see Ferran Adria having breakfast there. The world famous chef admits that Juanito's tortillas, callos and chorizillos are second to none!

Boqueria Market, Barcelona
Boqueria Market, Barcelona


Coffee Time

When we leave La Boqueria, mumblings of 'I'm dying for a coffee and a sit down' can be overheard.

As the last thing we want is unhappy troops, it's time to stop for breakfast normally at the Modernista Café de l'Òpera if we decide to sit inside or the terrace of Bar Mendizàbal next to L'Antic Hospital de la Santa Creu on bright sunny mornings.


Gaudi's First Job

Suitably replenished, we make our way down to Plaça Reial, which apart from having Jamboree, Tarantos and Sidecar - the best jazz, flamenco and indie live music venues in town - also boasts lamp posts by one Antoni Gaudí.

He got the commission in 1878, when he was only 26 and hadn't even finished architectural school yet.

What's more Palau Güell, his first major building in Barcelona and built a decade later, is just across the road on Carrer Nou de la Rambla.

Plaça Reial, Gaudi building
Plaça Reial


The Catalan Inventor Of The Submarine

There's loads more gubbins down at the bottom of The Ramblas - the Wax Museum, the best-preserved medieval shipyards in the world at Les Drassanes, the Columbus Monument along with a gaggle of prostitutes and a couple of sex shops - but my favourite item is El Icitineo.

Designed by Catalan inventor Narcis Monturiol, this was the world's first submarine and 5 eminent personages took a trip in it in 1859.

Unfortunately, the Spanish Navy thought Monturiol was nuts and the idea would never catch on so he received no funding and he died in poverty in 1885.

Apparently, he was Jules Verne's inspiration for Captain Nemo in 20,000 Leagues under the sea.

Barcelona Submarine
Barcelona Submarine


Time For Lunch

Around 1 o'clock, with brains throbbing at having to assimilate so much information, stomachs generally start rumbling and those who so wish adjourn with me to El Portalón for a slap up three-course Menu del Dia are more than welcome.

This is one of my favourite Gothic bars - it's cheap, cheerful, the food is exceptional for the price and they're happy to let you sit there chewing the fat for as long as you like.

I look forward to seeing you on the tour!

El Portalón, Barcelona
El Portalón, Barcelona




Simon Harris has lived in Barcelona since 1988, where he had a career as a minor rock star before becoming a University English professor and finally a tour guide and webmaster at Barcelona Travel Guide where you can read more about The Ramblas and book your Ramblas Walking Tour.
Simon is also author of the acclaimed 'Going Native in Catalonia'.

20 April 2013

Seeing Malaga with a Walking Tour Guide

Having a spate of airport drop-offs I took the opportunity to explore Malaga a bit more. It´s a city that has grown on me bit by bit, the more I see, the more I like it and want to discover more.

This time I was escorted by an expert tour guide, Victor, who was born and bred in Malaga, has travelled extensively and returned to Malaga. His company We Love Malaga, offers Tapas Tours, Walking Tours, Gourmet Tours and Flamenco Tours.

In Front of Plaza de la Marina, Malaga at night
In Front of Plaza de la Marina

My drive down had been wet, my walk to meet Victor accompanied by a steady drizzle, but from the second we met not a drop of rain fell on us.

We began with a rooftop view of the new harbour development reminiscent of many small marinas along the front, the twinkling lights giving a prettier view at night.


There´s not much Victor doesn´t know about his city and he shares its foibles as well as its glories.

Egg splatted Plaque in memory of Frederico Garcia Lorca



Malaga Cathedral at night
Unfinished Cathedral with a tower missing

I´d not even noticed on a previous visit that the cathedral was unfinished, it was designed to be symmetrical and is a twin to Jaen Cathedral.

Malaga Cathedral
Malaga Cathedral

Carmen Thyssen Museum, Malaga
Crowds Outside Carmen Thyssen Museum, Malaga

We bumped into Picasso on a park bench near his birth place

Picasso in Malaga
Picasso Statue in Malaga

before checking out Malaga´s oldest winery


and then sampling some tapas and a well earned beer.


A flat, friendly easy to explore city that comes to life so much more with some insight and history, humour and tapas - a fabulous mix and fun evening out. If you want to explore Malaga, get to know We Love Malaga.

See my Morning Photo of The Wedding Cake Church taken on the tour.

Have a look at some other trips and guided tours around Andalucia.

18 April 2013

Top Ten Best Voted Spanish Towns

The Spanish publication 20minutos.es has published a list of ´Los 50 pueblos mas bonitos en España´ or The 50 Prettiest Towns in Spain. I´ve pulled out the top ten and listed them below. I´ve now many additions to my ´Want to Visit´ list and so far I´ve only been to one out of the ten here - Ronda.


1 Albarracín, Teruel
2 La Alberca, Salamanca
3 Cudillero, Asturias
4 Ainsa, Huesca
5 Arcos de la Frontera, Cádiz
6 Ronda, Málaga
7 Morella, Castellón
8 Pedraza, Segovia
9 Santillana del Mar, Cantabria
10 Ansó, Huesca


Read about Albarracin in the guest post by Patrick Waller who runs tours and day trips in the area.

Read Other Related Posts

Places to Propose

Paradors of Andalucia with Wonderful Views

15 April 2013

Monday Morning Photo - Wild Asparagus from the Olive Groves

After a month of rain and two weeks of sun the wild asparagus is prolific this year. Revuelto de Espárragos for supper tonight.




Revuelto is a great recipe/idea to use up any leftovers you might have. A few green beans or spinach or asparagus? Pop it it a frying pan with some olive oil and garlic, add any chopped up bits of chorizo or jamon you have then pour in a beaten egg or two, depending on the quantity of veg/meat you have and there you have it a quick instant and healthy supper.

09 April 2013

Spa Hotels in Spain

Never one to say no to a spa and always nosy and on the lookout for nice places to go I thought a post of Spa Hotels both large and small, rural and urban would be in order.

So here´s my reminder of finds and far easier to locate that the mountainous scraps of paper or trawling through diary scribbles and notes (yes, I still use pen and paper.)

This post will be constantly updated. Please do drop me a comment or email with any spas that you know so I can add them to what I´m sure will be a long list.


Small Hotels with Spas - Up to 15 Rooms

The Secret Hotel
Monte Hueznar
Real Casona de las Amas
Hotel La Fuente del Sol

hotel La Fuente del Sol, Malaga
Hotel La Fuente del Sol

Medium Hotels with Spas - 15 - 50 Rooms

Hospedería Conventual Sierra de Gata
Hacienda La Laguna

Larger Hotels with Spas - 50 - 125 Rooms

Balneario La Hermida
Balneario Valle del Jerte
Elba Palace

Large Hotels with Spas - Over 125 Rooms

El Gran Hotel Elba Estepona & Thalasso Spa
Hotel Elba Costa Ballena
Intercontinental La Torre Golf Resort

Gran Hotel Elba Estepona, Thalasso Spa
Gran Hotel Elba Estepona, Thalasso Spa


Star Spas - Hotels I´ve personally visited

Hacienda La Laguna

Hotel La Fuente del Sol

Intercontinental La Torre


08 April 2013

Monday Morning Photo - Sunset behind the Sierra Caracolera, Jaen

Going home one evening I just had to stop and snap the sunset, I think it must be my finger in the top right-corner (something I manage a lot with the camera on my phone) but quite effective!




02 April 2013

Hotel La Fuente del Sol

On a better than we´d had, but not great weather day, we set off southwards towards Antequera and a night away in the wilds of Sierra del Torcal de Antequera Nature Reserve.

Around 50 km from Malaga, Antequera is a town that has grown on me greatly every trip through. This time (on the way home) we stopped and wandered, took photos and agreed we´d like to come back, stay in the town itself and explore. Having sped around the outskirts and headed into the back of beyond the views opened up and looming granite sierras and rolling fields enhanced our get away feeling as we went to find our digs for the night.

A winding, rolling, looming and cloudy 18km or so from Antequera we rolled up at our destination. The day reminded me of Dartmoor jaunts, wind whistling, clouds rushing and a great desire to be indoors. Even so we bravely paused in the three-sided white-painted courtyard and admired the never ending views.


I could well imagine sitting with a glass of white wine, a lot less clothes and sunglasses, drinking in more than the scenery and admiring the potted geraniums and tinkling patio fountain.


We didn´t hang about, the dim reception with welcoming terracotta tiles was empty, and when the phone beckoned, service arrived. Our room, no. 9, was ample in size with high roof-beam ceiling and largish bathroom, comfortable enough with a pleasant but far from the best view on offer.


The heated indoor pool was open at a price, the outside one not an option. We didn´t even fancy a hike, fair weather walkers that we are, so boots staying in the boot, we got in the car again for an exploration of the area and options for dinner.


The only real choice is driving into the village of La Joya where we sampled the local restaurant for a beer and a tapas (which was very cheap and very good) or dining at the hotel (not so cheap) - which we also did. The high beamed restaurant with wood burners lacked warmth in both ways, even though we sat in front of one, and although we were the only diners, we found ourselves whispering.


The menu offered a great choice and we´d almost chosen before leaving our room, the waiter/cum receptionist did a fine job, without a smile or much interest, and even though he´d booked us in had to ask our room number. Our choice of Prawn and Bacon stuffed Sea Bass with Orange Compote and Sautéed Seasonal Vegetables and Pork Tenderloin with Mignon Sauce with Stuffed Mushrooms with a bottle of local Malaga Red Wine was very good indeed.

Our king-sized bed offered a good nights sleep but battled with the howling wind to keep me asleep. We´d planned an early start wanting to re-visit the incredible El Torcal Natural Park, visit the Alcazar in Antequera and the Dolmens. Breakfast, in the same restaurant, was a buffet affair, an ample continental and bacon and egg layout, nicely presented and well-attended, it was also nice to have some company in there even though we were first again.

Being daylight meant we could appreciate the views through the ample restaurant windows although we could see it was a windy, chilly day outdoors again.


We checked out with the same guy (I hoped he´d had some sleep), having been asked our room number again, we´d only seen two other couples/groups, how hard could it be to remember? That was a big niggle for me, and not the only one. The wifi connection in our room was non-existant to very slow. A towel rail was loose in our bathroom but the major one was we had no water in the bathroom and when reception was told no apology at all was forthcoming.


For an escape in the country, peace and quiet this spot (in better weather) has to be idyllic, for me it´s a bit too far out if day trips are wanted. If all you want to do is find your hotel and not move again this could be the perfect location for you. If you want some variety, to dine in different places every night without a long journey then the road to La Fuente del Sol is just a bit too long.

Note:
We paid our own bill at La Fuente del Sol, they have good ´Crazy Tuesday´ prices in March and April.

01 April 2013

Monday Morning Photo - Sierra Subbetica

An exploratory long route home from Malaga airport through Rute and Carcabuey overshadowed by the granite mass of the Sierra Subbetica Natural Park, joining Cordoba and Jaen province, with some fabulous cloud formations.

Sierra Subbetica Natural Park, Cordoba
Sierra Subbetica Natural Park


28 March 2013

Antequera in Photos

Having very little time we drove straight to the Casco Historico and zipped around a tiny part of Antequera. We were impressed and will be back, this time to stay in the heart of the town, not out in the sticks like the Hotel La Fuente del Sol which we were checking out. At around 16 long, winding, impressive kilometres from Antequera, the area reminded me of Exmoor, a touch of Scotland and had definite wailings of Heathcliff during the windy night.

Hotel La Fuente del Sol patio and views

You may have gathered it was rather chilly and cloudy on our visit, we headed up to the surreal El Torcal to find ourselves enveloped in cloud. The mirador or viewpoint offered no view that day, but the whole effect was incredibly spooky and I was rather thankful there was no howling from the nearby Wolf Park.

El TorcalEl Torcal
El Torcal
El Torcal - in the clouds

Heading down to normality and towards Antequera a restaurant/museum, Molino Blanco, beckoned us in for coffee..


Antequera old town... saving the Alcazar visit for the next trip.


Leaving Antequera the Dolmens are a must...


Antequera is only 50km from Malaga and the so-called Costa del Sol, and world´s away in many respects. A great and varied 24-hour escape.